my EXPERTS which is the way to go skid wheels or Flop Axles

[jaaybird]

Son has a 29 ft Aljo TT, and has a very LOW clearance. Pulls it with a Ford F150. One of the " skid plates" just broke off last weekend pulling into a driveway for an RV spot.

TWO different RV shops have given different opinions

1) FLOP axles
2) just repair skid plate and ADD skid WHEELS

what does my panels of experts think is the Best way?

JB

[Eric J]

not sure what would be the best? but I have a friend that flopped his axles and it gave him a lot more ground clearance, he does have to step up a little bit more to get to the first step to the door, said he missed it several times, but got used to it.

[Cal]

First off is the trailer level when hitched on flat ground?
Second those skid plates/wheels put a lot of torque on the frame
If you hit a driveway at an angle one side will be carrying the weight.
Best if the tail don't drag at all.

[Mickey]

Jay, one would need to look at the axles closely. Many will have to camber built in to them so when supporting the full load the wheels will be vert. (axles bend from supporting the load). If the axle was flipped without re-cambering, the wheels will not be vert and load will be carried off to the side of the tire.

And as cal has mentioned, I'd think you'd want the trailer to be level when connected to the truck.

Maybe the best thing to do if rig is level is to just rebuild the skids. I added a pair of skid to the MH. Made from 3/8" bar stock and bent in to a "V" shape and welded to the frame. Take s LOT of dragging to wear through 3/8" steel. If I had the ability instead of a "V" shape I think I'd prefer a modified "U" shape.

[jaaybird]

Thank you all

Mickey, Cal

I knew I could count on you!

[Russ Chastain]

You don't really flip the axles - you just move them below the springs.

I did it after I got my TT, and I have never regretted it. I gained at least 5" of clearance, and there have been many times I would have hung up the trailer (or plumbing for dumping tanks) if I hadn't done it.

I believe the kits (1 per axle), Dexter brand, ran me about $80. It took some jacking, blocking, grinding, cutting of old rusty bolts, a little welding, and a few bad words, but I got it done and I love the results.

When I have to set up at a site where the wheels on the door-side of the trailer have to be blocked up to level the rig, then the first step can be kind of a pain. A small step to place on the ground nearby would cure that.

I say - move the axles below the springs. Then, as Cal said, he won't have all that stress placed on the frame from those rollers/bumpers.

I have a friend with rollers on his, and they keep getting torn up. That's another thing to consider... maintenance on them.

[jaaybird]

Thanks Russ!

[Eric J]

my bad, I did did not clarify? he did did not flip them, he did what what Russ did..... just moved them below the springs. I never thought about making a small step tho? I will mention that to him, unless he has already done it? good idea

[Russ Chastain]

I forgot to mention that, as far as levelling the rig for towing, my hitch has some adjustment built into it, and the spring bars also make a difference... and I found that the trailer rides a lot more level now that I moved the axles than it did before.

[admin]

I have a webpage on lowering the axles at:

http://www.rverscorner.com/axles1.html

(looks like it could use an update) that may be of interest. Dexter has kits available that do not require any welding and work very well.

[jaaybird]

thanks Le4s, will look at it now

[Russ Chastain]

Dexter has kits available that do not require any welding and work very well.

The kits I used didn't technically require welding... they made it optional. But it was the long nuts (allthread couplers) that keep the axle square with the world that I welded, so the axle would stay in adjustment.