leaf spring /shackle question?

[Eric J]

I was under neath looking at running some wire for a back up light and noticed some thing that I questioned? don't know if any of ya ll can answer this? but I will describe it the best I can...........

I have two 5000 axles, the springs are connected to a shackle at each far end, in the middle between the tires their is a Equalizer bar shaped in a tri-angle with each leaf connected to the bottom of it, at the top their is one bolt that connects the top of the Equalizer bar to a shackle that is welded to the frame, here,s my question...... should their be play in the Equalizer between it and the shackle? I noticed better than a quarter to 1/2 inch, that the Equalizer can move back and forth inside the shackle?
their is no bushing in the Equalizer its just metal to metal bolt. I looked around on line and noticed some Equalizer,s have a bushing in them. the bolt looks like it is still tight in the hole, but it bothers me to see that much weight on one bolt and have that kinda play in it? is this normal?
also noticed some of the bolts being sold are grade 5, would grade 8 be any better? or would that be to hard and tend to snap under a sharp jolt of a pot hole? just curious?

[RV Mech Tech]

Eric- in any new trailer you will find some slight play between these components -this allows some movement between these parts - most original sytems will be a bolt through the equalizer and a small plastic bushing that wears out in no time- some have better thicker greasable bushings and some of the heavier triple axle suspensions will have different setups altogether- two good webs to check out are a) www.morryde.com and b) www.dexteraxle.com -these are two of the best for technical information and there are many other sites if you do a search on your computer - Morryde has a nice special type of equalizer that cushions the harsh ride - it all depends what you want and what you can install -its always good to know what else is available- any trailer repair shop will have the standard parts to replace yours if required -when a TT or fifth wheel turns a corner watch what happens to the wheels and suspension- there is a lot of side load on everything and thats why trailer tires are different they usually have a thicker sidewall for this increased load- thats also why keeping an eye on the wheel bearings is also important along with a regular inspection of the suspension- check out some of the insurance websites for what happens to trailers when the mantenance is not done - let us know what you find-

[Eric J]

thanks for the reply, I think I want greaseable bushings? looks like alot of weight on that one bolt to me? dont look like to much fun to change out tho I will check out the web sites you posted

[Eric J]

RV Mech Tech, have you ever delt with the E-Z flex heavy duty Equalization system? it looks well built and grease able. except for the rubber peice at the bottom of it?

[RV Mech Tech]

Eric - I have installed these on two trailers and both owners are very happy with the results - this product also bolts in place of the original equ. and has grease fittings- the idea behind it is to isolate the road vibrations and damaging shocks to the trailer and stuff inside but it also dampens the shock on the rest of the suspension- with a regular equalizer the constant pounding of the road surface does wear the suspension system and this device absorbs that shock - this is one of many parts you can install and you should check out other manufactures products on the web- also some RV dealers carry these parts but you will find more trailers supply sources that will carry them and you can do a dealer search of the company you want to buy from- they have other devices to dampen the shock such as fifthe wheel hookups etc. so check out the internet- make sure you do a complete check of all the other parts as well - one cracked or broken part could cause serious trouble-

[RV Mech Tech]

Eric - also when you buy one of these suspension upgrade parts you get top of the line fasteneres as well- the minimum grade of bolt I would use is grade 5, preferably grade 8 - then you can drive down the road knowing that nothings going to break and you can do your own servicing (greasing etc.) of the new parts - that equalizer is a bolt-in installation and comes with complete instructions- as always SAFETY is your first concern so have the proper equipment (floor jack, jackstands, block the wheels etc.) and have someone there to help you just in case-

[Eric J]

well I dont like whats under their, it dont suit me, some say i,m picky and maybe I am? but anyway, its looks to me like if I put 2 floor jacks, one under each axel and jack it up, let the 2 trailer jacks down, put 2 jack stands under the frame (one on each side of the wheels per say) pull the tires, I should then be able to lower and or raise each axel to with each jack and find the point where the bolts should tap out, maybe have to use a come along if need be? to pull the axel left or right to line up the bolt holes again?
Is that any where close to how it is done?

one more question? does the kit come with new bolts for the other side of the leafs? it almost looked like some of the bolts had gearse fittings on the end of them?

[Eric J]

RV Mech Tech I called on the EZ-Equalizer kit, however my number on my Equalizer was not something they could cross over to? they have no idea if it will fit for me or not? my axles are 2007 on the data tage looks like it says on the back side of the base plate 12x2 .....Brake pads maybe? the number on the equalizer has a HI on one side and a E0 or EC- 356 on the other side center to center of the bolts on the bottom of the Equalizer is 6 1/8 from bottom and bottom to top looks like 4 inches.
Do you by chance still have any of the old Equalizer,s laying around that you may could look at and see if by chance they had the same numbers I have? i,m thinking it prob would work? but the guy I talked to would not even take a measurement of bolt sizes or how wide at the top or the 6 1/8 that I have to help me out in any way

[RV Mech Tech]

Eric- the number on your old EQ. will probably be just a casting number or the manufactur who made it - what you have to do is identify the axle you have, and identify the equalizer size - the person at any parts counter will have to have this information because he does not know whats on your specific trailer- all the information you need to do this is on the Dexter website- bring up their home page - at the top will be several titles- a) Products & Literature will help you identify the type and capacity of the axle you have giving you the measurements for each type of axle, b) Parts Kit Catalog has a picture guide of all the available kits and specs for everything they carry in stock, c) Online Parts Store will give you the prices as well, d) on the right side of the home page is a click on list of several catagories including the brake, suspension, wheel bearings, application listings etc -a wealth of information and e) on the current home page there is a link at the top right side "Whats New" that has a complete description of the Equalizer system - all the info you need to I.D. your setup on your trailer - the Dexter site is one of the best for tech info I have seen so keep looking on it and you will find it-- also there is a dealer in Canada that has all the Dexter manuals, product guides etc. as well as some of the previous info they provided on their site and it is www.primotrailerssales.com - I will check that site to get the link and post it here shortly-

[RV Mech Tech]

Eric- after you click on www.primotrailersales.com click open the 'Parts' link on the left and then there will be two links in the center of the page -click on 'RV & Trailer Parts' and then scroll to the bottom of the page and there will be a list of Dexter manuals, service guides and other info that you can use as well- I worked as an auto mechanic for several years and we always had to have all the info about a car when we needed parts and its even more necessary with RV's since the parts suppliers cannot be sure what you have on you trailer - the manufacture that made the trailer has a good idea about what body parts or paint on your trailer but order a part for the Dometic fridge for example and they will have to have the model, serial etc. - some things on an RV are not standard - an equalizer or spring leaf or brake parts can come from several different companies so that when you order parts they have to know the specs- size of axle, size of equalizer, bolt spacing on the equalizer etc- all that info is on the selection guide so you will have do some paperwork first- once you are ready to order then have all that info ready or if you are ordering online then provide that info and they can help you choose- also the Dexter site has a dealer locator link and if there is a dealer near you then take the old equalizer with you - and some of the trailer supply stores may not be listed on Dexters website so phone around in your area and you might find someone closer that has or can order the parts for you- good luck and let us know what you find-

[Eric J]

thanks for all the info
I have found that my axles are AL-KO Kober mod T52...3 rated 5200 lbs
I went to their web site but was not able to locate any info on their about the Equalizer, looked around on the net for 2 hrs for a cross reference chart and was not able to locate one, so I called primotrailer sales, talked with the parts man their, gave him all the specs of what I have, he said he thinks it would work but would try and and make some calls this Tuesday and see? and at the same time I got the feeling he could care less if he sold one or not and dexter was the same way when I called them, its amazing to me as tight as the doller is that people would act that way on a 300 to 400 doller sale?
sorry, just blowing off a little frustration

[RV Mech Tech]

Eric- the Dexter replacement equalizer system is called EZ-Flex and can be found on the home page at the right is the big box that says 'Whats New At Dexter' - the middle link is called 'The EZ-Flex ' equalizer system- the system is also pictured in their parts catalog as well-

[Russ Chastain]

While you're messing with it, think about whether you have enough road clearance under the trailer. Dexter sells kits that will let you put the axles under the springs if they're not already on the bottom side.

I did this on my 28' TT and it gave me 4"-5" more clearance. The rear end of the trailer and the plumbing drain valves would have dragged on the road in many of the places I've had it, without this modification.

[Eric J]

that crossed my mind, I have also hurd of people flipping axles over as well to get the same result, but while I was looking for info to see if this dexter kit would work or not, I read something that changed my mind for now, if I was to raise it with the truck I am pulling it with, it would no longer set level like it does now, which inturn would put more load on the front axel, so at the moment I think i,m better off to stay the way I am? so I think?

[admin]

Lowering the Axles - raising the trailer

This procedure is erroneously referred to as "flipping the axles".
The axles are not inverted or flipped over, but are re-positioned from over to under the springs. This will lift the trailer about 4 to 5 inches

http://www.rverscorner.com/axles1.html